Week 3 & 4: Orangutan Teacher

Wow… First off I must apologise for doing the complete opposite of what this blog is meant for – keeping you all updated! My time in the jungle was so unbelievable and took over my life for 2 months. It was really amazing!! I’ve done a lot in the last 2-3 months since I last blogged so I’ll dedicate this one to updating you all on my jungle experiences.. 

In my second and third rotations I did ‘Indoor’ and ‘Outdoor’ as they are known. In Indoor we had to look after the smaller orangutans. First thing in the morning we would put on our gloves and masks, start cleaning their living quarters and prepare any food or milk necessary for that day. The orangutans at this stage of their lives are a lot like baby-toddlers (depending on how old they are). Their behaviour ranges from wanting to be super clingy, to being very cheeky and running away from us, to being completely uninterested and wanting to explore the nursery. The nursery ropes are built purposefully to introduce the babies to climbing. They aren’t too high so they don’t get scared and if they so happen to fall won’t hurt themselves. They extend partway into the forest meaning they get their first taste of their new home. Our job was to encourage them to climb as much as possible, as well as providing them with foliage to help them practice nest building. An orangutan will build a new nest every night in the wild, making it an essential skill for their survival. These are behaviours that in the wild they would learn from their mother. Some days were more challenging than others with the little ones. Sometimes they would decide to be cheeky and jump off the ropes, we would have to race after them into the undergrowth to put them back up. They don’t realise that the soil is full of microbes that can make them very ill, so keeping them off the ground is essential for keeping them healthy and teaching them good practice for staying away from predators. Some days they simply decided they didn’t want to climb and wouldn’t hold onto the ropes – you can imagine how difficult it is to get a baby orangutan to climb who doesn’t want to. But other days, they climbed like heroes and we witnessed them progress and find their confidence. It was so moving to watch them grow and learn in such a short space of time. I didn’t realise we would be able to see results so quickly. Each of them was unique: Beryl was a master nest builder, Bidu Bidu was a real bully, Peanut loved playing with sticks, Sepilok loved pretending to be a baby to get attention, Goman was an ace climber and cared very little for us. Of the babies, Coco was really independent, Ospi was a clinger and Archie would climb the same few ropes over and over. Of them all, I was really proud of Sepilok who went from being super clingy and a bit useless at climbing, to finding his independence and venturing further into the forest. 

In outdoor we looked after the older guys, from ~5yrs +. Here we had to be much more hands off. They are learning to be totally independent orangutans and associating with humans too much can impair their learning. This is also the age in which their mother would push them away. The morning routine is pretty similar to indoor, mask + gloves, clean their living quarters and prepare their food for the day. We also have to rake the viewing area for the tourists, as they opened up outdoor to viewers a few years ago. It made me laugh that I had to rake the 4 or 5 leaves that fell overnight. When I asked Beddy (ranger) why, he said because otherwise the tourists complain that it looks dirty. I can promise you it did not, but it really made me think about what the tourists expected from the centre. How can you come to a rehabilitation centre IN THE JUNGLE and complain about leaf litter.. Strange.. But maybe that’s just me. I’ll keep that in mind from now on when I’m being a ‘demanding tourist’. So we would spend the day watching the orangutans, making sure they were climbing properly and watching out for any wild orangutans. The centre classifies the orangutans as either ‘in the program’, ‘semi-wild’ or ‘wild’. The semi-wilds are ones that have left the program but still hang around the centre occasionally. The wild ones are born and live within the Sepilok rainforest. We have to let the wilds and in program orangutans interact naturally. They have to figure out for themselves who is dominate & subordinate. We are simply there to make sure the in program orangutans don’t get hurt. It was really interesting to see them interacting with one another. Everyone definitely has their own personality; some bullies, some shy, some totally independent, others loners. They really are just like us! We had 6 orangutans for most of our time: Kalabatu, Boogie Boy, Chikita, Gelison, Wulan and Cinta. Itinban joined us in the last 2 weeks of the program. He was really beautiful! He was much paler than the others, had lots of wrinkles and a big droopy mouth. We could not believe how strong he was though!! Luckily he was extremely gentle with us but his strength will definitely bode well for him the wild. He found his feet, made friends and I hope he is still doing well.   

My time working with the orangutans was completely unbelievable. Every day I would wake up with a smile on my face knowing that I would be working with volunteers, rangers and orangutans who were all amazing. We were surrounded by the forest and got to explore the place that these primates call home. We had daily visits from wild orangutans who would try to steal the milk or food we prepared for the others. We got chased, bitten and slapped by them, but it was all part of the job. Working in the jungle, surrounded by wild animals comes with its own risks. We worked in 35°C+ and 80%+ humidity in masks, gloves, wellingtons and long trousers, but it all added to the experience. I feel like I definitely learnt so much about how I believe animals should be looked after. Sepilok set a high standard for animal care. These orangutans have been given a shot at life. They all arrived with their own tragic stories – most from plantations but some from being kept as pets – and are looked after daily by intelligent people who genuinely care about their success in the forest. I’m so glad I got to be a part of their lives and help them on their path to becoming wild orangutans, as they should be. I have so many little memories that I will hold on to for the rest of my life. Now it’s time to say goodbye and move on to my next adventure.

If anyone has been inspired by my post, please consider adopting an orangutan: https://www.orangutan-appeal.org.uk/adopt

                                                                                S x

* I would recommend to anyone to go and visit the centre. If you do, please contact me! I would love to hear about your experience and can answer any questions you may have.

* All photo credit goes to Brooke (one of the volunteers) who is an amazing photographer!

Boogie Boy Swinging

Boogie Boy is very independent and loves climbing

Cinta is the oldest female in the program at 11

Cinta can be identified by her long fingers and toes

Gelison is very playful and has no problem approaching wild orangutans

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gelison always stands and holds a rope when eating

Wulan posing for the camera

Kalabatu was my favourite

Kalabatu has dark fur and beautiful big brown eyes

Itinban is much paler than the others

Itinban had an accident as a baby and lost all his teeth. He now has new ones but they don't fill his mouth enough, leaving lots of saggy skin.

Matimis is very intelligent and she enjoyed stealing bananas from the kitchen

Poogle is the wild dominant male

Poogle is very gentle and a great teacher to the 'in program' orangutans

Ringo is a wild male. He is extremely timid.

Salamat is gay and lost his partner not long ago to a chest infection. Due to the trauma he lost all his hair. It is now in the process of growing back and he is doing well

Salamat is always first to the sweet potatoes

Ceria is a semi-wild male. He is a big bully and has been known to attack people

Ganag is a wild female

Kacy is the dominant female. She is always eating!

Clenan gave birth to Awantang 2 years ago and often comes to feed at the centre

Awantang is adventurous and sometimes plays with Gelison

Week 2: Introducing Shannon Grylls

So I think I've finally been inspired to sit down and write another blog post. I'm sorry it hasn't been sooner but I've become very involved in my work and the people here that I forgot to update you all!
Our first working week began with us meeting Gabili. He is going to be our ranger for trekking. He's a local with short dark hair, he answers yes to any question you ask, is always smiling and has his trusted machete at his hip. In short, Gabili is the best! He has been working at the centre for 27 years and knows everything and anything there is to know about the forest.
First thing in the morning we collect sugar cane or banana leaves for the nursery orang-utans (up to 4yrs). These enrich the apes lives and helps them to learn vital skills such as nesting. It's amazing how long you can stare at them whilst they practice nesting. One female in particular is so good and becomes frustrated when the males come and stomp on or steal her nest. An orang-utan will nest every night in a tree so it's important to learn from a young age. They also love playing in the leaves and eating them. According to Gabili wild sugar cane is good for people with asthma (fun fact!). 
We then head into the deep dark forest. We trek for ~1hr and survey the forest for orang-utan nests. This data helps the centre keep track of how many orang-utans there are within the 11 acre forest. The centre uses a system whereby they identify how old the nest is e.g. 1 week, 1 month, 3 months, 6 months. We also identify the species of tree. I've discovered they like nesting in Saraya trees. Whilst we walk Gabili points out interesting insects, plants, birds and small mammals. So far we have seen wild rubber (Gabili stabbed the tree and it just bled and bled sap. On a good tree you could extract 1lt every 10mins), Shorea laevis - tree that's resin was used for candles in villages (smells lovely), Saraya tree that was used for communication across villages because when hit, the hollow interior rings out for kilometres, Filoboletus fungus (glows in the dark), wild pepper (helps cats and dogs with fleas), wild garlic, itchy plant, plants which cure cancers and tumours, Lankayam vines which store water so we actually drank from them - very cool!, wild boar, giant squirrels, badgers, pygmy deer, horned spiders (one was munching away on a dragonfly - also very cool!), water spiders, bullet ants, manater lizards, green viper, a 7ft python, mangrove snake, crested serpent eagle, oriental hornbill, rhinoceros hornbill, and probably most awesome a wild tarsier and slow loris. I could go on and on but safe to say you could walk around this forest for a year and find something new every day. The most impressive thing is definitely the healing powers of plants. Gabili has told us about ones that cure kidney stones, rashes and itches, bee stings, asthma and as I said before cancers and tumours. We identified ones you can use to stun fish when fishing and poisons to kill our enemy and get away with it. And I imagine those are only the tip of the iceberg. Finally he taught us how to recognise and mark our own trails. So now I feel totally prepared to face the jungle on my own! Bets on how long I survive??
We've had the best time following Gabili through the forest with his machete. We laugh at how you are literally standing in the middle of vines, trees, with not a single trail mark and he just starts hacking into the most vegetated place and says 'this way'. How this man has any clue where he is baffles me! We've walked across rickety bridges, climbed over enormous fallen trees, shimmed over them when there is no other way, through the thickest mud and up steep hills. But I have to give him credit for always getting us back.
Despite being a meal for some leeches - which isn't the greatest - I've had a great time trekking! Being in the forest learning so many new things greatly satisfies my inner animal biologist and I hope one day I'll know as much Gabili!
Next week: Outdoor - which means I'll finally be able to meet some orang-utans!

                                                            S x

Week 1: Quarantine Week

Welcome to the jungle everyone!

As I looked over to Becki in the airport in Tawau I could just tell how excited she was about landing in Sandakan and finally starting our project. Luckily we didn't have to wait long and after a 45mins flight we arrived to be greeted by Ronn, our project supervisor. Her and Jon drove us back to the resthouse which is only 20mins from the airport. Ronn is a petite woman, who doesn't talk much, contrasting greatly to Jon who is bubbly and chatty. He informed us that during our first week he would be our tour guide, taking us to various temples and animal sanctuaries in the area.
We arrived at the resthouse to be greeted but our 10 other housemates. There is a good mixture of ages and nationalities - I'm the youngest at 21, with the oldest being 42. All girls except for one aussie guy who has joined his girlfriend for the 8 weeks. We have 4 Aussies,  2 Welsh, 2 Danish, 1 English,  1 Italian, 1 Polish and 1 Sri Lankan. Everyone was very lovely and I had high hopes that we wouldn't all want to kill each other by the end of the 2 months.
Becki and I are sharing a room with Tara (Sri Lankan). It's nice and spacious, we have air con, a bathroom and room to hang all our clothes up - something both Becki and I have been craving after living out our backpacks for 2 weeks.
We were given a briefing that evening about our 'quarantine week'. This week gives us a chance to see the sites, shake any jet lag and if any of us are carrying any bugs, symptoms would show in this time (we have to be very careful as the orang-utans can catch infections from us).
On Wednesday 21st Jon picked us up and took us around Sandakan. We started the tour at The Death March memorial. If you have read my previous posts you'll remember The Death March story. In Sandakan was where the concentration camps were located and we walked around the site, reading the stories of the survivors. Deeply moving. We carried on our tour to a water village. Water villages in Borneo are illegal settlements from immigrants from all around the archipelago e.g. Philippines and  Papua New Guinea. Jon explained that these settlements are growing in certain areas of Borneo due to corrupt politicians offering to turn a blind eye and not deport them, in order to guarantee their vote. According to Jon, many locals wish for them to leave mainly because of the pollution they cause. They throw anything and everything from plastic bottles and bags to fridges and food waste out their windows. I have to say it was very bad but I noticed it in KK and Semporna.
Post water village we visited a Chinese temple which was stunning! As I'm sure I've already mentioned there is a great mixture of different cultures here and the Chinese influence is strong. I asked Jon how the locals feel about them and he said in Sabah there is no racism, everyone is perfectly happy cohabiting, which I loved. We finished our tour with a nice spot of traditional English afternoon tea. At first the idea seemed a little odd but in the end it was all very delicious and the local Sabah tea is lovely.
On Thursday 22nd we piled into the car once more and Jon took us to the proboscis monkey sanctuary ~30mins away. If you have never seen a picture of one, Google now. They are the funniest looking monkeys and they make hilarious sounds! Unfortunately I have conflicting opinions on the work they carry out there. The monkeys obviously have a safe place to live, however they have become completely desensitised to people and have no quarms about posing for a selfie with the odd Chinese tourist..
On Saturday 24th we got given a tour and induction of the center and the work we would be doing for the next 7 weeks. We met Elis the boss who is always cracking jokes (most of which we dont really understand) but we all laugh along with him. We were split into our 3 groups which would rotate between trekking, working in the nursery and outdoor. I'm in a group with Lina and Camilla (Danish) and Alison (Welsh). Then we all waiting in excitement for Monday to arrive...

*Unfortunately we did get told that during working hours we are not allowed to take photos of anything. We also had to sign nondisclosure agreements meaning there are lots of parts of my work I can't talk about, but I'll do my best to give you an idea of what I do and update you on any interesting orang-utan news.*

                                                                S x

The Indonesian Haze

So I've been umming and arring about whether to write about this on my blog. As I've travelled around Southeast Asia I've heard about the fires in Indonesia and the haze, I've heard the odd opinion from locals but never got round to researching it myself. I know not everyone is as enthusiastic about the environment and animals as I am, but part of me feels responsible to keep you all updated on what's happening in my world, in a way that doesn't seem biased or pushy.
So when I finally arrived in Sepilok I sat down and did a bit of research. And what I found was that Indonesia is on fire. Not the usual story of a forest on fire because of someone not putting out their cigarette butt. 5,000km2 of fire. Intentionally lit by both farmers and companies.

A lot of my research kept leading me to the '1997 Southeast Asian Haze'. In short these were fires which occurred all across Kalimatan and Sumatra burning 45,000km2 of forest (equivalent of 9 million football pitches),  releasing sulfides,  nitrous oxides and ash into the surrounding environment. On the Pollution Standard Index this disaster ranked 800, with 200-300 being considered hazardous (equivalent of smoking 20 cigarettes/day). 70 million people were affected (just over the population of France) throughout SE Asia and economic loss was estimated at $5-6 billion.

In the name of trying to remain as unbiased as possible I'll say it's common practice in Indonesia to preform 'slash&burn' in order to clear areas of the forest for agriculture. It is also legal to burn up to 2 hectares of your own land for agricultural purposes. However the fires out here in Indonesia began in August and since then over 270,000 fires have been lit. To me that seems a bit more than the odd farmer burning his 2ha..

So what's so different about these fires?
El Nino is a warm water current which controls temperature and rainfall in the Pacific ocean. It provides warm air for Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines, known as the dry season. Apparently this year El Nino is particularly large, deep and more intense causing the warm period to be extended in this part of the world.
Indonesia is the largest producer of palm oil in the world. Companies have been draining the peatland for pulp and palm oil production. This leaves the soil dry and "whether accidental or deliberate, fires on drained and degraded peat can easily burn out of control, especially in periods of drought" (Greenpeace, 2015). One of the biggest problems is that much of the forest is located on this drained peatland. Peat is decayed vegetation, packed together which forms extremely efficient carbon sinks. It can be composed of different elements, including carbon dioxide, methane and carbon monoxide (all greenhouse gases and toxic in high quantities). Peat also smoulders, meaning that once lit it can burn for months, years or even centuries, releasing it's stores of greenhouse gases. Greenpeace have said they do not blame these companies solely but that "they have created the conditions in which forest and peatland fires thrive".
The Indonesian government also has a lot to answer for. Due to corruption, government officials turn a blind eye to the illegal destruction caused by these big companies. They hand out permits to develop on forested or peatland areas without monitoring the actions of farmers or these companies, meaning action against those accountable is near impossible. On top of all of this, again according to Greenpeace, "the government is also blocking civil society and private sector efforts to ensure concession maps are placed in the public domain; this lack of transparency makes it harder to hold those responsible for forest and peatland fires to account".
I know what you're thinking "another classic case of third world corruption and greed..". This is true but what really made me want to write about these fires was the stats I found out. Compared to the 1997 fires, these have already caused $30 billion of damage, thousands of people and endangered species have been displaced and ranks at 2000 on the Pollution Standard Index. This is the equivalent of each person smoking 200 cigarettes/day just by stepping out their door. In three weeks of the fires burning they have released more CO2 than the annual emissions of Germany. In some cities visibility is worse than 30m, schools have been closed and they have mobilised warships to evacuate people. Endangered species such as orang-utans, elephants,  tigers and many different insects and plants are at risk. Naturally as their habitat is being destroyed they wander into villages and farms in search of food, causing conflicts between them and humans.
These fires are considered by some as "The worst environmental disaster in the 21st century (yet)".
People can no longer work. Children are losing out on valuable education. Who knows how much fauna and flora has been affected. Tourism will be affected. Think of the economic loss. Think of the current & future medical problems people will suffer from smoking 200 cigarettes/day for the last 3 months (plus however long they continue for).
This is why I think we should care.
I don't want this post to seem all doom and gloom, I'm just trying to get across the severity of the situation. The Indonesian government has deployed 30 aircrafts and 22,000 troops to fight the fires. They do have evacuation plans in order just in case. Malaysia, Singapore, Australia and Japan have all sent assistance. Conservationists are treating injured wildlife and moving them to safer areas. But environmentalists say more must be done if we are going to stop these fires for good.

As for solutions, I've researched a few ways in which you can help.
Sign this petition: Halt the Haze
Sign this petition: Foreign Ambassadors to Help Indonesia
Donate to: Orangutan Outreach Emergency Fire Fund

Whichever side you feel you support most whether that be the children, the emergency services or the wildlife, there is something you can do! A quick Google search will give you so many more ways in which you can help, as I have definitely not exhausted the list.

One final thing, during my searches for info I found this article with incredible before & after the haze photos, check them out!

And heres a quick 2min video explaining it all.

                                                                  S x

** I got my info from reading various articles, from different types of sources such as newspapers, NGOS and journals. I did try to remain as unbiased and informed as possible **

Borneo

We caught the flight from Depansar to Kuala Lumpur in the afternoon on Monday which meant we arrived in Kota Kinabalu around 8pm. KK (as it's known) is the capitol of Malaysian Borneo. My friend Meg had recommended Masada backpackers to us and when we arrived we were not disappointed. Lovely staff, clean rooms with AC and hot showers. You would have thought being 30°C and god knows how humid we wouldn't want hot showers, but backpacking around makes you very sticky and cold showers just don't quite give you that 'clean feeling'.
My friend Meg is a beautiful girl from Tasmania who I met when she came to do a school exchange in Italy. We had some cracking adventures in '08 and I've been lucky to have seen her since she moved back home. Now she flutters back and forth from Tazzy to Borneo to see her boyfriend Andy and we were lucky to catch her on one of her visits.
The next day we had the honour of her showing us around KK. We went to the museum - which I would recommend - and learnt about the history of Borneo. It was interesting to read about the Dutch and British rule within Sabah and about the Japanese occupation during WWII. A story which moved me in particular was The Death March. Between 1942-1945 the Japanese invaded and occupied Sabah and in that time took British and Australian soldiers captive. Towards the end of the war the Japanese knew they were going to be attacked from the east and almost certainly lose, therefore they decided to move from Sadakan to Ranau. They forced their 2345 prisons to walk the 260km through the thick jungle. Some survived as long as they did partly from their knowledge of the jungle and sneaking off to eat tapioca, but by the time they reached KK only 6 prisoners had survived - all Australians. Apparently this is considered the single greatest atrocity committed against Australians during war time.
There's a bit of history for you..
From the museum, Meg took us to the top of Signal Hill where we had a beautiful view of the city and the islands.  She showed us where the old city boundary used to be and how it has been expanded through reclaimed land. I still don't quite understand this idea of pushing the sea away to make more land... surely doesn't it just flow back in? Oh well I'm sure someone will explain it to me.. We watched the sunset go down with G&Ts in our hands.. It was magical!
A big difference, I've noticed, between Bali and Borneo is the race mixtures. Borneo has far more Chinese influence, as well as being less Hindu and more Muslim. Christianity appears a lot stronger here too. The Chinese influence is apparent in the food and I've been loving trying something different from rice and chicken. If you ever do come out here definitely try Roti. Roti is a special bread they cook on the stove often served with some kind of curry, either inside or with. Becki and I are definitely fans! There is more variety with noodles and vegetables as well. They cook with more garlic and their spice blends are definitely different. There is also an obvious economic difference as well between Bali and Borneo. More people seem to have some kind of job working in cafes or in shops in Borneo, rather than just selling local fruit on the side of the road or being taxi drivers.
On Wednesday we got a shared taxi up to Mount Kinabalu Park. Very smooth 2hr journey through the bornean outback. This was the first time I'd properly seen virgin rainforest. I died. It is so. beautiful. It goes on for kms and kms, untouched, rolling mountains, with Mount Kinabalu towering over them all. Just stunning! It was lovely to breath some mountain air as becki and I arrived at the grand gates of the UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE (since 2000). Becki mentioned our lodge was 2km away which we thought isn't too far.. The 1st km was fiiine... Once we got off the beaten track the final km was STEEP up/down hills. It was at this moment, when becki was reaching for her inhailor for the second time and I showering in my own sweat, that we thanked our lucky stars we had backed out of full day trek up Mount Kinabalu the following day.
Instead we decided on some nice trail walking around the base for the day. And it really was great! Walking through the forest along the river, listening to the birds and cicadas sing. I kept thinking "This is exactly what I came here for". I was a little surprised how few small mammals, insect and reptiles we saw. In fact, aside from the odd ant it was basically just us and the trees. So for anyone planning on going, do go, but go for the walking and not to observe the fauna. That night we stayed in Mount Kinabalu Mountain Lodge with not a single bit of noise pollution, just the sounds of nature all around us. Heaven.
Our final night in KK we celebrated Meg's birthday which was really lovely. If you are ever in KK hit up El Centro bar, their food and drinks are amazing! 
We got a plane to Tawau the following morning, where we caught a taxi to Semporna. As we were driving along all I kept thinking was 1) "Bloody hell where does the palm oil stop and the forest start?!" 2) "This place is a shit hole...". The rubbish everywhere, the smell, the city in general really has nothing to offer. Becki made a good point saying that if the area is dominated by big palm oil companies, there is no where for the locals to create jobs through agriculture or tourism. I was a little worried then when we arrived at the backpackers as to what we'd do for the next 4 days..
Luckily Borneo Global Backpackers is also a diving shop so we organised a full day on Saturday with Cynthia and Leo. Becki and I are both total newbees to diving and I can say that both Cynthia and Leo were brilliant!  They took us out to Sibuan Island for two dives and some snorkeling. They made us feel so comfortable, were so patient with us (it's super weird at the start to convince your brain it's OK to breath underwater) and we both had the best day! If you do hit up Semporna - and only do if you want to dive, there is nothing else to do here - then I would thoroughly recommend BGB dive shop.
So what to do with our final day of holiday? Get on a boat with lots of Chinese tourists apparently. We spent the day snorkeling around PARADISE (aka Boheyouland and Mantabuan Islands). The highlight of the day was definitely our guide George (aka 50-something Malay man) serenading us as we looked out over the Semporna archipelago. He will be the next big hit*.
So after two weeks of Becki in the hospital,  gorgeous island hopping in Bali, seeing stunning rainforest and mountains in northern Borneo and scuba diving on the eastern coast,  I can say that we are finally heading to our project in Sepilok. I'm unbelievably excited!! I know I won't have any Internet whilst at the centre but I'll do my best to take lots of photos** and blog whenever I can.
Next stop: Conservation project with our big ginger cousins! Wish us luck!

                                                               S x

*videos coming soon
**when I eventually figure out how to get my pictures and videos off my gopro and onto this blog.. sorry!

Bali!

We flew from Heathrow on Monday 19th via Hong Kong. The 11hr flight was pretty tough. Both Becki and I commented on the strange feeling of how for us, it felt like no time had passed but in reality we had lost nearly half a day. Our lay over in Hong Kong meant we had time to have a coffee with Becki's sister Tess, which was lovely. At this point I was basically a walking zombie so I stayed close to Becki and she led me back through security and onto our final plane to Bali. The journey was 4 1/2hrs of which Becki and I were awake for the first 10mins. 
Kuta is a bustling city full of shops and mopeds & taxi's. People constantly offering you anything from a lift, to fruit or a massage as you walk by. I really felt like I was in Southeast Asia and it was exciting!
We decided on a 'go with the flow' attitude towards finding hostels which I think compliments my hobo-chic attire perfectly. We were dropped in Kuta centre where we wandered in the hot, thick air until we found a nice hostel called Sayang Maha Mertha.  Unfortunately I think we underestimated our jet lag and both passed out as soon as we arrived. We eventually woke up, went down to the hostel bar for our complimentary drink of orange squash, organised the following days travel and passed out once more.
We woke up at 6am, packed our things and hopped into a mini van which was taking us to the port in Podang Bai. Unfortunately about 30 seconds before the van showed up Becki was sick, meaning you can only imagine how the rest of our 5hrs of travelling in a bumpy van and fast boat went down. We arrived at the port where we were herded like cattle towards the dock to be told that "This boat full"... "and when was the next one?".. No answer.. My worry was more for poor Becki who was dying in the blistering heat.
When we finally arrived in Gili T we decided that the mid day heat was a bad idea for a very unwell becki so we picked the first hostel we could find - a lovely bungalow on the main strip of the island called Aquaddiction - and proceeded to pass out once more. By early evening we thought it was a good idea to try and eat something.  We strolled down the main strip until we finally found a beautiful little restaurant overlooking the turquoise ocean, dotted with boats. We sat under vibrant coloured umbrellas chatting and eating tasty mie goreng  (noodles with spicy chicken and veg) - a local dish.
Unfortunately the following day didn't quite go to plan and started and ended very early with me by Becki's bedside and her on an IV drip. She was ok, just very exhausted from travelling and unable to keep any food down, meaning she was dehydrated. I passed the day keeping her entertained with my random questions and making sure she was looked after. That night we walked to the famous Night Market and ate some lovely grilled meat. We chatted to our hostel buddies, petted their cats & python (yes, like the snake!) and decided we'd go snorkeling the following day in celebration of Becki feeling better.
Snorkeling was da bomb. We walled up to the north of the island and floated down with the current. We saw so many pretty fish, loads of coral and two hornbill turtles!! We had a great lunch at Warung Dewi, packed up our stuff and said a sad goodbye to Gili T. I think we both really loved the vibe of island life. There is something amazing about how transport is only by horse&cart, bicycle or foot. All the crammed bars and restaurants and the people. Everyone is keen to have your business but still genuine when you need help or advice.
We headed on a local boat that evening to Senggigi in Lombok. Lombok is the main island off the East coast of Bali. It's very mountainous with the centre consisting of the volcano Mount Rinjani, the second highest in Indonesia. According to the two German girls in our taxi to the hostel it last erupted in 2009. From the summit you can see all the way to Java! We opted for the 'easy route around Lombok' and hit up a spa for the day. The ocean views were incredible and we had a great day!
Our final day came round in the blink of an eye and we found ourselves once again on the boat to Bali. We used Semaya Cruise who were really good actually - I'd recommend them. Back in Kuta we stayed in the Coco Beach Hostel which again I would also recommend.

Just a few things I've noticed... The colours here are amazing. Europe has got a lot of things going for it but pales in comparison to Bali in colour. The ocean IS turquoise - I've never seen anything like it! I've noticed Bali has a very different smell too. Some kind of mixture between rich insense and humid air. I'm surprised at how few stray animals there are which pleases me. I loved sitting in my bungalow in Gili T and listening to the sounds of all the twittering birds, my favourite sounding like a rubber duck toy being squeezed - I must find out what it is! Neither Becki nor I have noticed mosquitoes here which is awesome. The food has been right down my street with lots of fresh fruit and just the right amount of spicy with lots of fresh crunchy veg. I'm not so keen on how obviously the locals try and rip you off for any kind of service. It's tough being a new traveller and learning to barter - personally I suck at it. In general however people are still very friendly and always happy to see you.

Next time I'll definitely leave more time (and money) to visit places like Ubud, go diving in the Gili's and trek up M. Rinjani. Till then you'll be missed Bali!

Next stop: Borneo

                                                         S x

Backpacking Novice

As a first time traveller I'm still learning all the tricks of efficient packing, spending and getting around. I think packing was the thing that surprised me most. I started by taking everything I wanted to take out of my wardrobe, realising there was no way in hell it would fit in my backpack, cutting it down by a third and then realising I was still being too optimistic. This left me with about a weeks worth of everything for six months travelling*.. Here's to a lot of hand washing!
I looked to my oldest brother Rhys for advice as he has spent a good portion of his 20s travelling from South Africa and Thailand to the Ivory Coast and Costa Rica. He had some great tips but my favoruite comment came when I expressed my doubt over my clothing situation  and in his words "you have to learn embrace the hobo-chic".
So grossly underweight bag in tow and hobo-chic clothing acquired, I left home. Leaving my dad is always tough. My family is incredibly close so knowing I wont be around for the next 6 months - missing holidays like Christmas & New Year and important birthday's - was hard to digest. However I decided to ease my way into travelling by making my first stop beautiful Brighton.
I spent a few days being incredibly lazy on Kyle's sofa and being fed copious amounts of cheese, before I caught the train up to London.  I have a huge base in London because most of my close girlfriends from back home study there, as well as my brother Gareth. I love visiting because there is nothing better than a huge meal (cooked by my lovely chef brother Gareth) and a catch up with my girlies. And that's exactly what I got! After an emotional goodbye I parted ways with them all and caught the bus to Oxford where I spent the night with my brother Sean and his gorgeous fiancé Georgia. They showed me around their wedding venue the following morning (I think I'm more excited about this wedding then they are) and we waved goodbye before I met up with all my old uni friends for a night on the town. Needless to say I had an amazing night and my hangover was evidence enough (Emily if those videos go viral, you'll pay :P).
In Oxford I met up with my travel buddy Becki and we made our final stop our old housemate and good friend Karolien's, near Heathrow. Her family were very welcoming! I slept terribly that night tossing and  turning with anxiety because the reality of what I was about to do finally hit me..
Roll on Monday 19th and our adventure officially began. Karolien waved us off and I anxiously made my way through security. I've had mixed emotions about leaving but I was glad that as I walked into the departures lounge, the anxiety became excitement and I knew we'd have an amazing time.
  See you all in Bali!

                                                        S x

*I will later discover our scales at home didn't work and only packed 10kg of my allowed 20. Put your order in for presents now!